LaReeca Rucker
The Clarion-Ledger
From the archives Dec. 12, 2010
California native Derek Emerson grew up in a family of foodies.
“We based vacations on the hot restaurant of the time,” he said.
That meant having breakfast at Brennan’s, sampling the French Creole cuisine of Galatoire’s, and dining in The Grill Room of The Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans.
His family also took food excursions to New York City and frequented Wolfgang Puck’s Spago in Beverly Hills.
Inspired by a friend who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, Emerson attended the Memphis Culinary Academy.
He later moved to Jackson to be near his Meridian family members and got a job at Schimmel’s, where he met his wife, Jennifer.
Today, the couple owns Walker’s Drive-In restaurant in Fondren and are co-owners of the Madison restaurant Local 463, which opened July 8.
Emerson’s connection to Walker’s began in 2001.
“People thought we were crazy, but I believed in Fondren and the people who had always supported that neighborhood,” he said. “The people of Jackson have always been really loyal to Walker’s. It’s been a staple in Jackson for a really long time.”
Walker’s initially opened in 1948 as a burger and shake joint. It was converted to an evening fine dining restaurant in 1980.
“We try to live up to the nostalgia,” he said. “The drive-in style is something we felt was very important to people who have been coming to Walker’s for a long time.”
In 2005, the restaurant endured an electrical fire, but later reopened.
Local artists William Goodman, Jason “Twiggy” Lott and Ginger Williams-Cook created art for the restaurant, including the distinctive outside mural of a woman holding a martini glass.
Walker’s menu changes seasonally and now includes dishes like braised osso bucco, a rabbit three-way entree that has become popular, and quail and foie gras.
Walker’s also offers many seafood dishes like its most popular, Redfish Anna, and focuses on buying goods locally from the state and Gulf of Mexico whenever possible.
Effie Hubanks has been the general manager of Walker’s for eight years. Her mother creates desserts for both restaurants.
“The menus have gotten more extensive, but we’re still small and have a small staff,” she said. “Derek tries to find things that no one else offers, and people are always interested in trying it. Some people won’t even look at the menu. They just want to have what he is serving as a special.”
Some menu items have become part of the new Madison restaurant’s menu. But Local 463 (a number that refers to the nearby highway) at 121 Colony Crossing also has different entrees like Southern magnolia ale-braised short ribs, shrimp corndogs and a slow-roasted pork belly sandwich.
“With that restaurant, we want to be to Madison what Walker’s is to Jackson – the neighborhood place to come eat,” Emerson said.
He describes Local 463 as a place with modern sophistication and a casual atmosphere. Dinner is more upscale.
Jennifer Emerson was responsible for the interior decor of Walker’s and Local 463. Local 463 touts an earthy vibe with its blue, birch wallpaper, sliding doors with suspended birch branches, Jonathan Adler light fixtures and a chocolate and aqua palette.
Williams-Cook created each of the abstract tabletops in which the number “463” is incorporated. All artwork in the restaurant is by local artists and is for sale. In addition to the food menu, there’s an art menu.
Derek Emerson said running two restaurants has been a new experience.
“I’m on I-55 half the day,” he said. “I usually go to Local 463 at lunch, work Tuesday nights at Walker’s, and I’m back and forth the rest of the week. I like to make sure I’m at both places every day for a little while.”
Emerson relies on chefs Louis LaRose at Local 463 and Matt Johnson at Walker’s.
The Emersons’ restaurant partner in Local 463 is longtime friend David Blumenthal, one of the original owners of Bravo and Broadstreet, who has known the Emersons more than 15 years.
“A couple of years ago, we started talking about possibly doing something again,” he said. “We had a common vision. I knew the quality of the product put out (at Walker’s) was outstanding, so I knew getting into it would be an easy decision.”
Brandon native Jennifer Emerson worked in restaurants throughout high school and college. After earning a bachelor’s degree in English, she spent five years managing a Chattanooga restaurant.
“Originally, I was going to go to law school, and the thought of sitting behind a desk and working nine to five – I prefer a hectic lifestyle,” she said. “I really like interacting with people.”
She later moved back to Jackson and worked for Nick’s, Bravo and Schimmel’s restaurants before marrying Derek Emerson.
“The opportunity to open Walker’s happened, and we took it,” she said.
To get started, the couple took out a $5,000 loan on her car, and her grandmother gave them $1,000.
“For most restaurants like Local 463, it takes $300,000,” she said. “Luckily, things for Walker’s just really fell into place. We could not have asked for a better restaurant at the time.
“It’s like everybody had their hand in making Walker’s what it is today. We just happened to come along at the right time and at the right place.”